Only in Budapest by Duncan J.D. Smith

Contents ÓBUDA (District III) 30 Some Most Unusual Museums 85 31 Art Amongst the Ruins 87 32 A Vanished District 89 33 Boat Factory Island 92 34 The Ruins of Roman Aquincum 94 PEST (Central and Inner Suburbs: Districts V–IX) 35 Bunkers, Boar’s Skin and Handmade Boots 97 36 Magistrates, Evita and the Great Plain Shepherds 99 37 The Statue of Imre Nagy 101 38 The Eternal Flame of ‘48 104 39 The Soviet Obelisk 106 40 The Sacred Right 109 41 A Superlative Parliament Building 113 42 A Family of Great Hungarians 115 43 Pubs in Ruins 118 44 Continental Europe’s Oldest Underground Railway 120 45 The Parisian Arcade 123 46 From Turkish Mosque to Baroque Masterpiece 126 47 Heathen Pepper and Herdsmen’s Soup 129 48 The Coffee House Revolutionaries 132 49 The Legendary Hotel Astoria 136 50 The Old Walls of Pest 138 51 The Garden Church of St. George 141 52 The Market Halls of Pest 144 53 A Powerful Centre for the Arts 146 54 Buildings for the Birds! 148 55 Brass Screws, Propaganda and the Monk’s Brick 151 56 Hungarian History in Paper and Stone 153 57 The Roma Quarter 156 58 Monuments and Mausolea, Poets and Politicians 158 59 The Forgotten Jewish Cemetery 161 60 Railway Stations and Steam Trains 165 61 Silver Screen Budapest 168 62 In the Ghetto 171 63 The Mystery of Raoul Wallenberg 175 6