Only in Cologne by Duncan J.D. Smith

5 Contents Contents Introduction 8 City Centre (West Bank): Innenstadt North (Borough 1) (Altstadt-Nord, Neustadt-Nord) 1 The Ruins of Colonia Agrippinensis 11 2 The Father of Modern Perfume 14 3 The Fountains of Cologne 17 4 The Invention of the Stumbling Stone 19 5 Excavating the Goldsmiths’ Quarter 21 6 Churches in Ruins 23 7 An Unusual Statue for a Prussian King 25 8 The Most Popular Theatre in Germany 28 9 All Modern Art is Here 30 10 A Medieval Sense of Humour! 32 11 Cathedral Curiosities 34 12 Walking the RomanWalls 37 13 A Descent into Cologne’s Crypts 40 14 The Birthplace of Electronic Music 43 15 A Shrine to Cutlery 45 16 Where Voices of Dissent are Still Loud 47 17 Street Names and House Numbers 50 18 The Horse Heads of Richmodstrasse 52 19 The Fascinating History of Money 55 20 Panama Hats and a Good Cup of Tea 57 21 How Cologne Might Have Looked 60 22 The Horrors of Klingelpütz 63 23 In the Footsteps of Pilgrims 66 24 The Sinking of the Cöln 68 25 The Underground Chandelier 70 26 A Pioneer of Post-War Modernism 73 27 Cologne’s Original Skyscraper 76 28 TheWorld’s Greatest Heap of Debris 79 29 A Car in Concrete 81 City Centre (West Bank): Innenstadt South (Borough 1) (Altstadt-Süd, Neustadt-Süd) 30 TheWorld in a Museum 83 31 A Dozen Romanesque Churches 86 32 Don’t Forget the Mustard 88 33 Casanova and the Chapel of Misery 91 34 Silver Screen Cologne 93