Only in Dubrovnik by Duncan J.D. Smith

Contents 30 Glories of the Ragusan School 66 31 The Musical Fortress 68 THE SUBURBS 32 The View from Mount Sr ¯d 70 33 The First State Quarantine 72 34 Croatian Modern Art 74 35 A Walk to Orsula Park 76 36 Dining in a Konoba 78 37 Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar 80 38 Franciscans and Austrians 82 39 Mortality and Modernism 84 40 Relics of the Croatian War 86 41 The Red History Museum 88 42 The Dubrovnik Beer Company 90 43 A Drowned River Valley 92 44 The Franjo Tu ¯dman Bridge 94 FARTHER AFIELD 45 A Resort in Ruins 96 46 The Mills of Mlini 98 47 The Cavtat Mausoleum 100 48 A Renaissance Arboretum 102 49 Salt Pans and Oyster Beds 104 50 The Pelješac Wine Trail 106 THE ISLANDS 51 The Mljet National Park 108 52 Escape to the Elaphites 110 53 The Daksa Massacre 112 54 Living in a Lighthouse 114 55 The Curse of Lokrum Island 116 APPENDICES Opening Times 118 Further Reading 119 Acknowledgements/Imprint 120 4