Only in Edinburgh by Duncan J.D. Smith

163 North &West Suburbs Royal Commonwealth Pool. The huge covered train shed and platforms were also demolished to make way for a sprawling Tesco superstore. Farther along Leith Walk at num- ber 180 is a party pub called the Mousetrap. Until just a few years ago this was the spit-and-sawdust Volun- teer Arms, or “The Volley” as Begbie calls it in Trainspotting . A regular drinking hangout for Renton and his cronies, it is here that Begbie indulges his taste for random acts of violence. Struggling with an early morning hangover, for example, he hits a man with a pool cue for putting him off his game by eating crisps. The change of ownership at “The Volley” and the fact it no longer opens at 7am is evi- dence of Leith’s slowly shifting demo- graphics. Third and final stop is the Muirhouse shopping centre on Penny- well Road (EH4). After failing to score any heroin, Renton makes do with some opium suppositories that quickly play havoc with his bow- els. Rushing to the toilet at the back of the centre’s betting agency he relieves himself and in a memorably scatalogical scene fishes for the suppositories in the overflowing toilet bowl. Boarded up and abandoned, the real shopping centre became an example of how the demolition of social housing can fragment longstanding communities leaving local businesses without custom. Proof were it needed that en- forced gentrification doesn’t work everywhere (plans are now afoot to replace the centre with a mixed-used development around a new civic square). To get a taste of the real Trainspotting lifestyle take a tour of Leith with Invisible Edinburgh, whose tour guides have themselves been affected by homelessness and in some cases addiction (www. invisible-cities.org ). TrainsmaynolongercometoLeithbutthereareplentyofbusesandagreatplacetowatch them is Leith Bus Depot at 55 Annandale Street. This listed red-brick building of the 1920shousesamodernfleetaswellasvintagevehicles,whichcanbeseenonopendays. Other locations nearby: 72, 74, 75, 76, 77 The clock tower above the former Leith Central Station

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