Only in Edinburgh by Duncan J.D. Smith

6 Contents 32 Scotland’s Oldest Concert Hall 76 33 A City beneath the Streets 78 34 Darwin’s Early Footsteps 80 35 Mysteries at the National Museum 82 36 The Chapel of the Hammermen 84 37 Coffee with Harry Potter 86 38 The Old Stones Speak 88 39 Exploring the Town Wall Ruins 91 40 A Tour for Bookworms 94 41 Edinburgh on Fire 96 SOUTHSIDE 42 Evidence of Stage Fright! 98 43 Beware the Bodysnatchers! 100 44 Ways to Worship in Southside 102 45 Signposts to the Past 104 46 The Innocent Railway Tunnel 106 47 Gin at the Dick Vet 108 WEST END 48 Big Screen Edinburgh 110 49 Boots and Beer on the Union Canal 112 50 From Orphanage to Art Gallery 114 51 Ups and Downs in Dean Village 116 52 A Splash of History 118 NEWTOWN 53 A Most Elegant Square 120 54 Around Edinburgh with Inspector Rebus 122 55 Mysterious World of the Freemasons 124 56 Cock Fights and Pancakes 126 57 The Skating Minister and Other Masterpieces 128 58 Scott-land! 130 59 Non Sinit Esse Feros 132 60 The First Purpose-Built Portrait Gallery 134 61 The New Town’s Unsung Architect 136 62 An Historic Pub Crawl 139