Only in Hamburg by Duncan J.D. Smith

6 Contents 30 Hitler’s Concrete Castles 86 31 A Handful of HistoricWindmills 89 32 A Lonely Little Lighthouse 92 33 The Rebuilding of BallinStadt 94 34 A Relic of Versailles 97 35 A Hindu Temple in the Suburbs 99 36 An Englishman and his Sewers 101 Southern Suburbs: Bergedorf (inc. Bergedorf, Billwerder, Kirchwerder, Lohbrügge) Harburg (inc. Altenwerder, Cranz, Neuenfelde, Neugraben-Fischbek) 37 For Painters and Varnishers Only 104 38 Sand Dunes in the City 106 39 The Castle on theWater 109 40 From Hamburg to the Stars 112 41 AWalk Through One of the Four Lands 114 42 Evidence for Hamburg’s Earliest Inhabitants 117 43 The Lost Village of Altenwerder 120 44 A Baroque Musical Masterpiece 123 45 A Taste of the Altes Land 125 Northwest Suburbs: Altona (inc. Altona-Altstadt, Altona-Nord, Bahrenfeld, Blankenese, Gross Flottbek, Nienstedten, Othmarschen, Ottensen, Sternschanze) Eimsbüttel (inc. Harvestehude, Rotherbaum, Stellingen) 46 Ups and Downs in the Staircase District 127 47 Subterranean Hamburg 130 48 An Eden on the Elbe 133 49 A Gigantic Reminder of the Ice Age 136 50 The Treasure of Käppen Luhrs 138 51 How Hamburg Might Have Looked 140 52 History Between the River and the Sea 143 53 The Jewish Stones Speak 145 54 Adaptive Reuse in Altona 148 55 Bonbons, Cigars, and Sailors’ Hats 151 56 FromCrystals to Quarks 154 57 A Day at the Races 157 58 Altona, Land of the Free 159 59 The Smell of Hops and Malted Barley 161 60 The Story of Rote Flora 163