Only in Krakow by Duncan J.D. Smith

135 Bar Targowy displays the typically modest interior of most milk bars (bar mleczny) North & East Suburbs still includes pierogi, boiled vegetables in sauce and mashed potatoes, with the only real difference being that meat is no longer rationed as it was in the old days. Other milk bars worth a visit include Bar Górnik at ul. Czysta 1 (Piasek), Pod Temid ą at ul. Grodzka 43 (Okół) and Pod Filarkami at ul. Starowi ś lna 29 (Kazimi- erz); also Bar Południowy at Rynek Podgórski 11 and Bar Krakus at ul. Bolesława Limanowskiego 16 (both in Podgórze). Anyone travelling east to visit Nowa Huta, the Communist-era steelworkers’ town, might care to enhance their retro experience by tak- ing lunch at Bar Mleczny Cen- tralny at os. Centrum C 1 on plac Centralny (see no. 74). There is even an example of a new milk bar in Krakow, namely Milkbar Tomasza at ul. šw. Tomasza 24 (Old Town), which is a clever fusion of traditional milk bar and 50s-style American diner. Similar to a milk bar but with table service and English-language menus is U Stasi at ul. Mikołajska 16 (Old Town). This tiny cafeteria takes a bit of tracking down but is worth the effort as it’s a Krakow institution. Family-run for over 80 years, it dishes out simple, home-cooked Polish food at very affordable prices. It is perhaps the only place in the Old Town where the clientele includes students and tourists, professors and pensioners! The sweet plum pierogi are highly recommended. Other locations nearby: 61, 63