Only in Krakow by Duncan J.D. Smith

5 Contents Contents Introduction 9 CENTRAL KRAKOW: Wawel Hill 1 History on Wawel Hill 11 2 Sceptres and Swords 14 3 Discovering the Lost Wawel 16 4 Of Bells and Bones 18 5 In the Dragon’s Den 20 CENTRAL KRAKOW: Okół & Stradom Quarters 6 Pinball Paradise 22 7 Finding a Woolly Rhino 24 8 The Prettiest Street in Krakow 26 9 Little Rome 28 10 Papal Tourism 30 11 Mystery of the Zbruch Idol 32 12 Where Medieval Meets Modern 34 CENTRAL KRAKOW: Old Town 13 The Biggest Market Square 36 14 Beneath the Rynek 38 15 The Cloth Hall Story 40 16 A Romanesque Rarity 42 17 Top of the Town Hall Tower 44 18 The Veit Stoss Altarpiece 46 19 At Home with the Hipolits 48 20 The Krzysztofory Cribs 50 21 Big Screen Krakow 52 22 Dough Rings and Floating Wreathes 54 23 The Hobby Horse Parade 56 24 The First University in Poland 58 25 Cellar Pubs and Clubs 60 26 A Shock in the Old Town 62 27 A Total Work of Art 64