Only in Krakow by Duncan J.D. Smith

7 Contents NORTH & EAST SUBURBS inc. Grzegórzki, Kleparz, Nowa Huta, Rakowice, Warszawskie &Wesoła 61 Workers Unite! 132 62 The Last Milk Bars 134 63 Lost Rivers of Krakow 136 64 The Lantern of the Dead 138 65 Railway Remains 140 66 The Brotherhood of the Cockerel 142 67 An Historic Brewery Reborn 144 68 A Night at the Opera 146 69 The Oldest Botanical Garden 148 70 Wings over Krakow 150 71 An Arena for Everyone 152 72 Wooden Churches of Małopolska 154 73 A Lot of Rubbish 156 74 A City for Steelworkers 158 75 Building the Lord’s Ark 160 76 Life and Death at Rakowicki 162 77 Poland’s Brave Home Army 164 78 Shopping the Old Fashioned Way 166 79 Behind Bars at Montelupich 168 80 Fortress Krakow 170 WEST SUBURBS inc. Bielany, Czarna Wieś, Nowa Wieś, Nowy Świat, Piasek, Salwator, Tyniec, Wola Justowska & Zwierzyniec 81 The Horrors of Reichsstrasse 172 82 Religious Relics, Miraculous Icons 174 83 A Young Cultural Hub 176 84 An Artist’s Home and Garden 178 85 The Cappuccino Church 180 86 Tobacco to Tytano 182 87 Coffeehouse Culture 184 88 Wojtek the Soldier Bear 186 89 Shooting Rifles and Photos 188 90 Bullet Holes and Beautiful Things 190 91 The Hotel Cracovia 192 92 Stunning Stained Glass 194