Only in Marseille by Duncan J.D. Smith

3 Contents Contents Introduction 5 Secteur I: Old Port (Vieux Port) and Frioul Archipelago (Îles du Frioul) Arrondissements 1 & 7 1 The Remains of Ancient Massalia 7 2 Songs of Revolution 9 3 Railway to the World 11 4 Hardware, Hats and Herbs 13 5 Story of the Stock Exchange 15 6 Tragedy on Rue d’Aubagne 17 7 An Art Deco Opera House 19 8 Catch of the Day 21 9 The Lost Galley Shipyard 23 10 The Santons of Provence 26 11 A Game of Tanned Feet 28 12 The Abbey of Saint Victor 30 13 A Tale of Two Forts 32 14 The Palais du Pharo 34 15 Boiled and then Simmered 36 16 Along the Kennedy Corniche 38 17 An Underwater Museum 40 18 A Unique Seaside Garden 42 19 Monte Cristo’s Prison 44 20 Boat Trip to the Islands 46 Secteur II (Centre North) Arrondissements 2 & 3 21 The Mediterranean World 48 22 The Nazi Round-Up 50 23 The Cosquer Cave Drawings 52 24 Cathedrals Old and New 54 25 A Stroll through Le Panier 56 26 Fragments of Old Marseille 58 27 From Hospital to Hotel 60 28 The Old Charity 62 29 Art at the FRAC 64 30 Towering Statistics 66 31 A Tobacco Factory Transformed 68 Secteur III (Centre East) Arrondissements 4 & 5 32 The Comet Chasers 70 33 Surprises at Palais Longchamp 72 34 How Pastis is Made 74

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