Only in Munich by Duncan J.D. Smith

5 Contents Contents Introduction 8 Old Town (Altstadt) (Altstadt – Lehel) 1 Ancient Gates, ForgottenWalls 11 2 Three Very Different Fathers 14 3 An Experiment in Communism 16 4 Europe’s Last Original Tiki Bar 18 5 Once Hitler’s Nightclub 20 6 A Descent into Munich’s Crypts 23 7 Hunting and Fishing Bavarian Style 26 8 Extraordinary Rooms in the Residenz 28 9 Curiosities in an English Garden 31 10 The Nativity as Art 34 11 TheWorld’s Oldest Kayak 37 12 Hotel Secrets, Secret Hotels 39 13 A Celebration of Alpinism 41 14 Germany’s Answer to Charlie Chaplin 43 15 Raising the Maypole 46 16 Good and Bad Memories in the Old Town Hall 48 17 A Legendary Cuckoo Clock 50 18 Obatzter , Weißwürste , and Schmalznudeln 52 19 The Historic Home of the Dancing Moors 54 20 Gothic Corners of Old Town 57 21 The History of Emergencies 60 22 Count Pocci’s Miniature Theatre 63 Inner Suburbs (Ludwigsvorstadt – Isarvorstadt; Maxvorstadt; Schwabing-West; Au – Haidhausen) 23 The Jugendstil Bathing Temple 65 24 A Place for Contemplation 68 25 CoffeeWith the Locals 70 26 All that Remains of a Crystal Palace 73 27 An Historic Fair 75 28 Under the Ground and Up in the Air 77 29 Munich’s Lost Synagogues 80 30 In Praise of Strong Beer 83 31 The City fromAbove 85 32 A Pharaoh’s Missing Coffin 87