Only in Seville by Duncan J.D. Smith

Introduction Civil strife tainted the first half of the 20th century and the region’s revival only really took off following the death of Franco in 1975. In 1982, Andalucia became an autonomous community (comunidad autónom) and a few years later Spain acceded to the European Union. Subsequent investment has seen Seville evolve rapidly into a modern city, with a healthy tourist sector trading on its mercurial past. Only in Seville is designed for city explorers interested in getting under the city’s skin. This is the Seville of grand palaces and closed convents, artistic havens and secluded patios, fervent traditions and epicurean delights. The fifty-five locations described represent the au- thor’s odyssey in and around the city’s five central areas (a combina- tion of official districts and neighbourhoods known as barrios ), which together showcase Seville’s treasures old and new. The first, Santa Cruz, lies at the heart of the formerly walled Old Town (Casco Antiguo) . Muslim Seville was here and later the Judería or Jewish Quarter. The neighbourhood’s warren of narrow streets holds many key sites, including the Gothic Seville Cathedral, with its landmark Giralda, and the Real Alcázar palace. As its name suggests, the neighbourhood of El Arenal was origi- nally a sandy area on the banks of the Guadalquivir. Once the port of Seville – the medieval shipyards are still extant – it is now built up and home to the city’s bullring. To the north is La Macarena. A traditional district dotted with churches and convents, its namesake basilica is the focus of Seville’s annual Holy Week (Semana Santa). The bustling Calle de la Feria pro- vides a glimpse of everyday life in the city. Across the river is working class Triana, which boasts a centuries-old association with ceramic manufacturing and is the spiritual home to flamenco . It is flanked by the Isla de la Cartuja, which hosted Seville’s Expo ’92, and Los Remedios, home to the famous Seville April Fair. Back across the river and south of Santa Cruz is leafy Parque de María Luisa. Once private gardens alongside Seville’s Royal Tobacco Factory, it was remodelled for the Ibero–American Exposition of 1929. The former pavilions now serve a variety of cultural purposes. Although Seville is Spain’s fourth largest city and well served by buses and trams, walking is the best way to get around. Whether mar- velling at the water cistern beneath the Real Alcázar, sipping sherry in the oldest tapas bar, crossing Santiago Calatrava’s suspension bridge, or scaling the world’s largest wooden structure, Only in Seville will encourage readers to set out on their own urban expedition. Duncan J. D. Smith, Seville & Vienna 6