Only in Trieste by Duncan J.D. Smith

3 Contents Contents Introduction 5 District IV (Centro Storico 1) Neighbourhoods 1. San Vito, 2. Città Vecchia, 3. Città Nuova, 4. Barriera Nuova 1 The Largest Seaside Square 7 2 All Theatres Great and Small 10 3 The Fashion Arcademy 12 4 Some Railway History 14 5 Exodus to Italy 16 6 Trieste and the Sea 18 7 The Old Port Reinvented 20 8 The Slovenian National Hall 22 9 Memorial for a Martyr 24 10 Cafés and Coffee Beans 26 11 The Jews of Trieste 28 12 Cinema in Trieste 30 13 Sea Sponges and Goatskin Glue 32 14 The Footsteps of James Joyce 34 15 Trieste for Book Lovers 36 16 Trattorias, Buffets and Osmize 38 17 Free Trieste! 40 18 The Ruins of Roman Tergeste 42 19 A Forgotten Medieval Tower 44 20 The Cathedral of Saint Justus 46 21 The Murdered Antiquarian 48 22 Beneath a Baroque Dome 50 23 Hokusai’s Great Wave 52 24 Sleeping with History 54 25 Ghosts of Cavana 56 26 The House of Baron Revoltella 58 27 The Armenian Hill 60 28 The Pharaoh’s Villa 62 29 A Wind Museum 64 30 Drinks at a Petrol Station 66 31 Where Sea Bathing is Segregated 68 32 Death of an Explorer 70 District V (Centro Storico 2) Neighbourhoods 5. Barriera Vecchia, 6. San Giacomo 33 Fascist Skyscrapers 72 34 Night Sky over Trieste 74 35 Italy’s Best Kept Dinosaur 76 36 The War for Peace 78