Only in Vienna by Duncan J.D. Smith

4 Contents 33 Church Crypts and Coffins 82 34 A Shrine to Esperanto 85 35 Legend of the Holy Lance 87 36 The Emperor’s Only Statue 90 37 Montezuma’s Headdress? 93 38 A Mysterious Egyptian 95 39 A Cabinet of Curiosities 97 THE INNER SUBURBS (Vorstädte: 3 rd –9 th Districts) 40 Honouring the Plague Saint 100 41 A Little Piece of Russia 102 42 Among Lilacs and Birdsong 104 43 The Mortar of Belgrade 106 44 A Ballroom Reborn 109 45 The Bones of Antonio Vivaldi 111 46 A Perfect Pair of Pavilions 113 47 The Composers’ Quarter 116 48 Commodes and Candelabra 118 49 In an Armenian Monastery 120 50 Creation of the Croissant 122 51 A Library with a View 124 52 Behind Closed Doors 126 53 The Iron Soldier 128 54 Mousetraps and Milking Stools 130 55 In the Locksmiths’ Square 132 56 The Church of Deliverance 134 57 A Cloister for Academics 136 58 Vienna’s First Skyscrapers 138 59 An Old Jewish Cemetery 140 60 The Strudlhof Steps 143 61 The Fools’ Tower 146 62 007 in Vienna 148 THE EASTERN SUBURBS (Leopoldstadt, etc: 2 nd & 20 th –22 nd Districts) 63 Hitler’s Monstrous Monuments 150 64 Home of the Waltz King 152 65 Memories of Mazzes Island 154 66 All the Fun of the Fair 157