Only in Zurich by Duncan J.D. Smith

Contents Contents Introduction 8 CITY CENTRE: DISTRICT 1 ALTSTADTWEST BANK (Lindenhof, City) 1 What’s Left of Roman Turicum? 11 2 A Pair of Legendary Churches 14 3 The Curiosities of St. Peter’s 18 4 Across the Lake to Ufenau 21 5 A Confectionery Success Story 24 6 Walking with Ghosts 26 7 A Clockmakers’ Paradise 29 8 A Unique Ethnographic Experience 32 9 In an Old Apothecary Garden 35 10 Butchers, Bakers, Blacksmiths 37 11 A Martyr to the Reformation 39 12 Homage to Urania 41 13 Giacometti’s Glorious Entrance Hall 43 14 The Spanish Bun Railway 46 15 A Lost Prehistoric World 49 16 Where the Limmat Meets the Sihl 52 CITY CENTRE: DISTRICT 1 ALTSTADT EAST BANK (Rathaus (Niederdorf/Oberdorf), Hochschulen) 17 The Thylacine and Other Oddities 55 18 From the Desk of Thomas Mann 58 19 The Sprayer of Zurich 60 20 A Secret Baroque Garden 63 21 The Forgotten Walls of Zurich 65 22 A Herd of Fibreglass Cows 68 23 An Evening at the Aelpli Bar 71 24 The Remains of Dada 73 25 Lenin’s Swiss Non-Revolution 76 26 The Fountains of Zurich 79 27 A Much Used Monastery 81 28 Swiss Masters and Pretty Houses 83 29 Some Stories from Trittligasse 86 30 An Old Private Cemetery 88 31 Burning the Böögg 90 5