Only in Berlin by Duncan J.D. Smith

5 Contents Introduction 8 Inner City – Central &West (District I – Mitte) 1 Medieval Berlin 11 2 The Other Berlin Walls 14 3 Churches in Ruins 18 4 Fragments of a Bygone City 21 5 A Hidden Corner of Museum Island 23 6 The Crypt of the Hohenzollerns 25 7 Wonders ex oriente 28 8 Lenin’s Head 30 9 An Appointment with Hitler 34 10 The Facts about the Führer Bunker 38 11 Holocaust Memorials 42 12 The End of the Stauffenberg Plot 45 13 The Victory Column and Other Highpoints 48 14 Remembering Mori ¯Ogai 51 15 The Anatomical Theatre 54 16 A Pneumatic Postal Dispatch System 56 17 The World’s Biggest Model Railway 58 18 Silver Screen Berlin 60 19 The Last of the Old Market Halls 63 20 Home of the Berlin Archaeopteryx 66 21 Concealed Courtyards 69 22 Descent into a Flak Tower 73 23 Some Unusual Museums 76 24 The Real Metropolis 79 Outer Suburbs – Northwest (District IV– Charlottenburg-Wilmersdorf, V– Spandau, XII – Reinickendorf) 25 The Old Villages of Berlin 82 26 Europe’s Oldest Buddhist Site 84 27 From Russia with Love 87 28 No Longer a Famous Prison 91 29 A Most Beautiful Cemetery 93 Contents