Only in Berlin by Duncan J.D. Smith

6 30 The Olympic Bell Tower 95 31 The Schildhorn Column 98 32 Curious Devil’s Mountain 100 33 Death and Glory on the AVUS Race Track 103 34 The Villas of Charlottenburg 106 35 Truffles, Marzipan and Perfume 108 36 From Kasseler to Currywurst 110 37 Sheltering from the Cold War 112 38 The Wilmersdorf Taj Mahal 115 39 Concrete Cadillacs and Other Modern Art 117 Outer Suburbs – Southwest (District VI – Steglitz-Zehlendorf, VII – Tempelhof-Schöneberg, &Potsdam) 40 Treasures from the Silk Road 120 41 “Scars As Nowhere Else” 123 42 Where the Atom was Split 125 43 The Changing Fortunes of Schwanenwerder 128 44 Suicide on Lake Wannsee 131 45 An Infamous Address 134 46 The Follies of Peacock Island 137 47 Princely Towers and Far Pavilions 139 48 Bridge of Unity, Bridge of Spies 142 49 Exploring Garrison Town 145 50 A Well-Travelled Coffin 148 51 “ Life Goes On” in Babelsberg 151 52 The Secrets of Lichterfelde 154 53 “I Still Keep a Suitcase in Berlin” 157 54 Lost Jewish Worlds 160 55 Through Quiet Colonnades 163 56 More than just Fairytales 165 57 The Ghosts of Germania 168 58 Schöneberg’s Urban Jungle 172 59 Hitler’s Eagles 174 Inner City – East (District II – Friedrichshain-Kreuzberg) 60 A Pair of Little Theatres 178 61 Riehmer’s Hidden Hofgarten 180 62 From the Hebrides to the Halle Gate 182 Contents