Only in Cologne by Duncan J.D. Smith

7 Contents 64 Where the Red Baron Learned to Fly 173 65 The Jewish Stones Speak 176 66 In Search of the Real Cologne 179 67 Memorials to Human Suffering 182 68 A Lighthouse Far From the Sea 185 69 Rock Climbing in the City 187 70 A Jugendstil Bathing Temple 189 71 The European Capital of Carnival 192 Southwest Suburbs: Rodenkirchen (Borough 2) Lindenthal (Borough 3) 72 A Hidden Roman Tomb 195 73 Historic Housing Estates 197 74 A Kidnapping in Lindenthal 200 75 Adenauer the Innovator 202 76 How Hitler Became Chancellor 205 77 Napoleon’s Cemetery 208 78 The University Coal Mine 210 79 FromCemetery to Market Hall 212 80 Controversy at the Martin Luther House 215 81 Building Towers for Bismarck 217 82 Once Germany’s Largest Fortress 219 83 The Legend of Bishop Maternus 221 84 Gunpowder, Candles and Art 224 Appendices Opening Times 227 Bibliography 230 Acknowledgements 231 Imprint 232