Only in Cologne by Duncan J.D. Smith

6 Contents 35 Portals to the Past 96 36 Hotel Secrets, Secret Hotels 98 37 Europe’s First Art Hotel 101 38 The Sound of Chinese Bells 104 39 Homage to aWater Reservoir 107 City Centre (East Bank): Innenstadt (Borough 1) (Deutz) 40 The Last of the Swing Bridges 110 41 Is That Really a Church? 113 42 A Road under the Rhine 116 43 TheWorld’s First Engine Factory 119 44 An AwardWinning Petrol Station 121 Eastern Suburbs: Porz (Borough 7) Kalk (Borough 8) Mülheim (Borough 9) 45 On the River at Zündorf 123 46 Wild in the Country 126 47 At the Temple of the Afghan Hindus 128 48 On God’s Green Acres 130 49 From Brewery to Beer Glass 133 50 The Real Home of the Suspended Railway 136 51 The Heart of Turkish Cologne 139 52 Where Robber Barons Once Held Court 142 53 A Home For Old Trams 145 54 Cologne’s Earliest Inhabitants 148 55 A Prussian Optical Telegraph Station 150 56 An Unexpected Japanese Garden 152 Northwest Suburbs: Ehrenfeld (Borough 4) Nippes (Borough 5) Chorweiler (Borough 6) 57 On the Trail of Rare Creatures 154 58 PalmTrees and Giant Water Lilies 157 59 Old Railroads on the Rhine 160 60 BunkerWorld 162 61 The Forty Millionth Ford is a Fiesta 165 62 A Curious Lake 168 63 A Taste of the Country 171